At dawn, two Saint-Cyr cadets in Grand Uniforme raise the French flag beside an equestrian statue, sunburst through the pines

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Saint-Cyr

Saint-Cyr does not train soldiers; it makes officers — and it has been making them since Napoleon founded the school in 1802. On the moors of Coëtquidan, in Brittany, cadets move between lecture theatres and fern-covered fields, between the library and the assault course, in a uniform crowned with a plume that has not changed in two centuries.

Each winter, for the anniversary of Austerlitz, the academy stages the Emperor’s battle in period dress: cannon, bicornes, cavalry and pink smoke. It looks like theatre, and it is — but it is also a lesson. At Saint-Cyr, memory is a training ground.